Andrej Ross. Sinaj 97 - rekomendacii dlya puteshestvennikov --------------------------------------------------------------- © Copyright Andrej Ross, 1997 Email: andreyr@netvision.net.il Date: 20 Oct 1998 Poka otsutstvuyut fotografii - oni budut vylozheny cherez neskol'ko dnej. ---------------------------------------------------------------
                                             ili
      o  tom kak  ne  popast'  na  "polunochnyj ekspress"
 
 

                                            Sinajskij poluostrov

                                                                    Poluostrov v severnom Egipte, zanimayushchij
                                                             ploshchad' 61kv.km. Naselenie  okolo 200000 tys.
                                                             chelovek, v osnovnom, beduinov. V severnoj chasti
                                                             predstavlyaet soboj uzkuyu pribrezhnuyu polosu s
                                                             peschanymi  dyunami. V central'noj chasti - gornyj
                                                             massiv. Poluostrov izrezan prirodnymi ushchel'yami
                                                             i vysushennymi kanalami, perepolnyaemymi v
                                                             sezon dozhdej. Klimat goryachij i suhoj.
                                                                   Bol'shinstvo naseleniya prozhivaet na
                                                             poberezh'e. |konomicheskaya aktivnost' ogranichena
                                                             i   svoditsya k gornym razrabotkam, rybolovstvu i
                                                             turizmu.
                                                                   Soglasno biblejskoj istorii - Sinaj mesto
                                                             sorokaletnego skitaniya evrejskogo naroda posle
                                                             vyhoda iz Egipta. Zdes' zhe, soglasno Tore, na gore
                                                             Sinaj Moisej poluchil desyat' zapovedej.
                                                                    V territorial'nom plane poluostrov igraet
                                                             rol' mosta mezhdu Afrikoj i Aziej i, v tozhe vremya,
                                                             yavlyaetsya bufernoj zonoj mezhdu ne vrazhduyushchimi v
                                                             nastoyashchee vremya stranami.
                                                                    Na protyazhenie vekov Sinajskij poluostrov 50
                                                             raz perehodil ot odnoj imperii k drugoj,
                                                             zahvatyvalsya assirijcami,  persami, grekami,
                                                             arabami, turkami i dr.
                                                                     S otkrytiem Sueckogo kanala v 1869 godu
                                                             Sinaj priobretaet sushchestvennoe mezhdunarodnoe
                                                             znachenie. Anglichane okkupiruyut Egipet v 1882
                                                             godu, preimushchestvenno iz-za svoih interesov v
                                                             otnoshenii Sueckogo   kanala. Posle Vtoroj
                                                             Mirovoj Vojny otnosheniya mezhdu musul'manskim
                                                             mirom i tol'ko chto obrazovannym evrejskim
                                                             gosudarstvom (1948) obostryayutsya. Poluostrov
                                                             popadaet v zonu konflikta mezhdu Egiptom i
                                                             Izrailem. Konflikt razreshaetsya v hode
                                                             SHestidnevnoj vojny 1967 goda, kogda Egipet,
                                                             Iordaniya i Siriya nachinayut neozhidannuyu
                                                             intervenciyu na gosudarstvo Izrail'. V hode
                                                             voennyh dejstvij izrail'skoj armii udaetsya ne
                                                             tol'ko preodolet'  nastuplenie  so storony
                                                             Sinajskogo poluostrova, no i otbrosit'
                                                             egipetskie vojska   do Sueckogo kanala, sozdav na
                                                             severe poluostrova zonu kontroliruemoj
                                                             territorii dlya predotvrashcheniya agressii
                                                             podobnogo roda v budushchem.
                                                                     V vos'midesyatye gody vsledstvie dlitel'nyh
                                                             peregovorov s uchastiem OON zaklyuchen dogovor o
                                                             mire s Egiptom (1979). Izrail'skie vojska
                                                             vyvodyatsya s territorii  poluostrova  (1982)  i
                                                             pogranichnogo goroda Taba (1989), a poluostrov
                                                             poluchaet status demilitarizovannoj zony
                                                             otkrytoj dlya turizma.
                                                                     V poslednie gody tempy turisticheskoj
                                                             industrii stol' vysoki, chto znachitel'naya chast'
                                                             dostupnogo poberezh'ya Krasnogo morya - eto
                                                             nepreryvnye gostinichnye kompleksy samogo
                                                             vysokogo urovnya so  sravnitel'no nizkimi cenami.
                                                             Turistov so vsego sveta privlekaet klimat, chudesa
                                                             Krasnogo morya, ekzoticheskoe perepletenie
                                                             civilizacii i srednevekov'ya.


         Nado skazat', chto ideya s samogo nachala byla avantyurnoj, no dlya cheloveka, ustavshego ot neskol'kih let nepreryvnoj raboty, eto byl edinstvennyj shans, bez osobyh zatrat i podgotovki smenit' obstanovku. V obshchej slozhnosti, ot poyavleniya idei poezdki do okonchaniya sborov proshlo  dvadcat' chetyre chasa,  v osnovnom  potrachennyh na zakupku razlichnyh banochek dlya rebenka. Teper' sleduet ob®yasnit', pochemu ona kazalas' avantyurnoj. My reshili ehat' v Egipet na svoej mashine, v seredine avgusta mesyaca i s rebenkom polutoragodovalogo vozrasta. Poezdka by vryad li sostoyalas', nachni my sovetovat'sya i vyyasnyat' podrobnosti, poetomu, krome rekomendacij, chto "nado mnogo pit'" osobennyh svedenij u nas ne bylo. S bol'shim trudom byla najdena karta Sinajskogo poluostrova (ne pol'zuetsya sprosom) s kratkim opisaniem naibolee populyarnyh mest. CHtoby poluchit' hot' nemnogo informacii my zashli v neskol'ko turagenstv, no nikto iz nih s Egiptom ne rabotal, ob®yasnyaya eto zharoj i politicheskoj obstanovkoj. Neskol'ko uspokaivali slova tovarishcha po rabote, chto "tam" vse govoryat na ivrite i mozhno platit'  shekelyami (eto ego vospominaniya 17 - letnej davnosti).
 
         Hajfa - Ashdod - Bersheva - Dimona. Polovinu puti rebenok spit, a ostal'noe vremya otkryvaet dveri, okna, hvataet rul', tashchit mamu za volosy, oret i voobshche s trudom oshchushchaet sebya na odnom metre zhiloj ploshchadi. Ne doehav 40 km. do |jlata, ostanavlivaemsya v Jotveta. |tom kibuce -- oazise v centre pustyni s  bassejnom  dlya vzroslyh i detej, uhozhennoj zelenoj  travoj, kreslami  i polnym pokoem. Dlya lyubitelej  na etoj zhe territorii - restoran. Vse vyglyadit ochen' pristojno. Mezhdu kibucem i zapravkoj ogromnaya detskaya ploshchadka s mnogochislennymi derevyannymi postrojkami:  domikami, gorkami, kachelyami i pr. Rebenok v polnom vostorge ot vnezapno poyavivshejsya svobody  i takogo kolichestva razvlechenij. Vnutri izbushki "na kur'ih nozhkah" stavim palatku i na kostre gotovim uzhin, zapivaya ego pripasennym pivom, takim obrazom, prazdnuya pervyj den' puteshestviya.
         Utro sleduyushchego dnya nachinaetsya v shest' pyatnadcat' i, izryadno potoptannye rebenkom, kotoryj nastojchivo pytalsya najti vyhod iz palatki, vstaem i my. Nedaleko ot restorana nahoditsya kran, posluzhivshij nam neogranichennym istochnikom vody dlya umyvanij i kupanij. Vodu dlya pit'ya mozhno vzyat' na zapravke. Posle  prigotovlennogo na primuse zavtraka vyezzhaem. V |jlate, radi lyubopytstva, interesuemsya cenoj nochi v primitivnom kempinge. Ne proyaviv  nikakogo interesa k svoim potencial'nym klientam  i  dazhe s nekotoroj dolej prenebrezheniya nam soobshchayut  cenu - 120 shek. za den'.
         Nasha granica. S nashej storony granicy osobyh trudnostej net. No nado byt' gotovym k nalogu v 54 shek. s cheloveka (rebenok mladshe dvuh let ne v schet),  obmenu voditel'skih prav na mezhdunarodnye    (maksimum  50 shek. s cheloveka)  i  sdache sotovogo telefona  na hranenie za devyat' shek. v den', t.k. ispol'zovanie ego v Egipte zapreshcheno (ne stoit rasstraivat'sya lyubitelyam poboltat'  po telefonu, opyt pokazal, chto svyazi net.  Sushchestvuyut eshche predlozheniya o razlichnyh vidah strahovaniya mashiny  i   zdorov'ya, no stoit eto otnositel'no dorogo. V okoshke obmena prav na mashinu sovershenno "otmorozhennaya " chinovnica  dolgo ne mogla vzyat'  v tolk,  chto my ot nee hotim.  Mozhno podumat', k nej obrashchayutsya po drugim voprosam.  V sosednem okne menyayut shekeli na paundy - egipetskie den'gi. Obmen beznalogovyj, kurs ~ 1: 1.1. My pomenyali 500 shekelej, pamyatuya, chto " shekeli prinimayut svobodno". Na pasportnom kontrole iz vsej sem'i prisutstvoval v nalichii tol'ko ya odin, t.k. zhena otsutstvovala po tehnicheskim prichinam, a rebenok v drugom uglu zdaniya s peremennym uspehom valil pal'mu. Problem eto ne vyzvalo.
 
 

                                      Vizovyj kontrol'

                                                                     Dlya v®ezda puteshestvennikov cherez granicu v
                                                              |jlate viza ne trebuetsya, odnako,  v®ezd v  rajone
                                                              Sueckogo  kanala trebuet  egipetskoj vizy.
                                                              Tamozhennyj  sbor okolo 20  dollarov SSHA. Viza
                                                              dejstvitel'na   3 mesyaca.

         Ih granica. CHto srazu udivlyaet tak eto to, chto nikto ne znaet  i  ne govorit na ivrite. Pri plohom znanii anglijskogo ili otsutstviya navykov  razgovornoj rechi voznikayut kolossal'nye problemy.  Po privychke  proiznosish'  frazu  eshche  i na  ivrite, no eto absolyutno  lishnee   i ne  pomogaet. Prohodim pasportnyj kontrol', vyhodim iz zdaniya, sadimsya v mashinu  i  dazhe minuem eshche odin post s proverkoj pasportov. A vot na sleduyushchem postu posle ochen' dlitel'nogo ob®yasneniya  vyyasnyaetsya, chto my ne proshli tamozhnyu. Na predydushchem postu dolgo ob®yasnyaem, pochemu my uzhe vozvrashchaemsya. Taki, nahodim, gde tamozhnya. Udivitel'no, kak my ee minovali. Nado otmetit', chto masshtaby postroek ne te, vse zdaniya -  soedinennye  v ryad vagonchiki, razumeetsya, bez kakih-libo vyvesok. Sprosit' nekogo, lyudej vokrug net. Tamozhennyj dosmotr znachitel'no ser'eznej, chem ozhidalos'. Vse sumki poshli na obluchenie. Iz mashiny byla vynuta zapaska, podnyat kapot, ne spesha i professional'no  prosmotreno dnishche, siden'ya i t.d. Posle etogo byl vydan klochok bumagi s neskol'kimi slovami arabskogo teksta. Zagruzhaem mashinu i  snova ot®ezzhaem, minuem znakomyj post s povtornoj proverkoj pasportov, snova pod®ezzhaem  ko  vtoromu  shlagbaumu (eto v 500 metrah ot zdaniya  pasportnogo kontrolya). Nas ne puskayut. Opyat' prodolzhitel'nye dvuhstoronnie vyyasneniya.  Po znakomoj doroge vozvrashchaemsya dlya polucheniya arabskih nomernyh znakov.  Vstrechayut kak rodnyh, lish' interesuyutsya,  za kakim delom na etot raz.  Poluchenie nomerov - otdel'naya istoriya, gde  obhodish' posledovatel'no  chetyreh  chinovnikov, kazhdomu iz nih platish' den'gi, potom dolgo ishchesh' klochok bumagi, poluchennyj na tamozhne, platish' eshche raz i  poluchaesh' dva znaka v sostoyanii  konservnoj banki  dolgo valyavshejsya na doroge, no odin s remeshkom - eto na bamper, a vtoroj bez - eto za zadnee steklo. Obshchaya summa deneg ostavlennaya zdes' - okolo 180 shekelej. No smeh ne v etom, a v tom, chto posle togo, kak vse bylo polucheno i povesheno, den'gi zaplacheny  i  vykurena sigareta za okonchanie etoj nervotrepki, nashu mashinu ne udaetsya zavesti. Hoteli uzhe vozvrashchat'sya v |jlat. Zaveli s tolkacha. Na poslednem postu s nas vzyali eshche 37 paundov  za chto, razumeetsya, neizvestno, no posle etogo my smogli nakonec-to vyehat' za predely pust' slaboj,  no ochen' alchnoj    vlasti, a kak potom vyyasnilos' i za predely civilizacii. Itog - tri chasa  begotni pri zhare pod 50 gradusov, poteryannye den'gi, izmuchennaya neopredelennost'yu supruga i  obessilennyj rebenok.
        Taba - Nuvejba - Dagab  - SHarem |l' SHejh.  Srazu posle |jlata gorod Taba. On izvesten  iz-za kogda-to izrail'skoj gostinicy Hilton. Sejchas izrail'tyane perehodyat granicu, chtoby provesti vecher za zelenym  stolom. Po razgovoram ceny v poltora-dva raza nizhe. Dalee okolo 70 km. do Nuvejby.  Doroga vse vremya idet po pribrezhnoj polose, ochen' krasivo i vsegda mozhno svernut' k moryu v odin iz mnogochislennyh kempingov. Est' dva vida podobnyh kempingov. Odin predstavlyaet soboj kompleksy komnat s dushem, kondicionerom ili bez nih,  a  vtoroj - eto bungala iz trostnika. Cena komnaty poryadka 20-50 shekelej v sutki. Bungalo stoit 10 shek. s cheloveka. Kak pravilo, prisutstvuet i  restoranchik, gde mozhno deshevo i vkusno poest'. Na nash vzglyad, bol'shinstvo uvidennyh turistov obitalo v bungalah. My poprobovali i to i drugoe,  no  na obratnom puti prozhili neskol'ko dnej na beregu  v bungalah, pol'stivshis'  na nevysokuyu cenu, polnuyu nezavisimost' i  blizost' k prirode.
 

 
 
                                                Nuweiba

                                                                     Policiya - v centre goroda okolo gostinicy.
                                                              Zapravochnaya stanciya i garazh. Avtobusnaya stanciya
                                                              rabotaet s utra do polunochi. Vozmozhny avtobusy i
                                                              taksi v lyubom napravlenii, vklyuchaya Kair.
                                                              Torgovaya zona - tovary pervoj neobhodimosti,
                                                              produkty, ovoshchnoj rynok.  Pochta, telegraf,
                                                              telefon. Medicinskij centr - pervaya pomoshch',
                                                              lechenie i rentgen. Vrachebnaya pomoshch' v24 chasa v
                                                              sutki, plata za medobsluzhivanie po kursu. V 1
                                                              kilometre ot goroda - port.

        Nuvejba. Interes predstavlyaet poberezh'e. Mnogo raznogo roda stoyanok pod otkrytym nebom, est' i kempingi, nekotorye ves'ma original'nye. V mestnom supermarkete mozhno kupit' ovoshchi. Ceny raza v dva nizhe izrail'skih. Zona otdyha turistov nahoditsya v storone ot zhiloj chasti goroda.  Proezzhaya po zhilym kvartalam vpadaesh' v trans ot uvi