Jurmala, known as a health resort since the 19th century, was founded in 1959 with the uniting of the towns of Sloka, Kemeri and Jurmala; today those names survive to mark the town's three railway stations. Jurmala is easily reached by road from Riga, only 20 km away; you can also reach it quickly and easily by electric train, minibus or taxi. Today the town is a fascinating combination of traditional and modern architecture: wooden summer houses complete with verandas and woodcuts rub shoulders with modern resort buildings. Because of its history as a popular destination for visitors, Jurmala abounds with fascinating exhibitions, galleries and museums, all offering regular and varied displays.

South of Jurmala, straddling the Lielupe river by the Zemgale plains, is Jelgava, a major industrial centre and a key junction for several railway lines and main roads, including the road to êiauliai, in Lithuania. That doesn't mean you should just pass through: Jelgava is home to the Baltics' most spectacular baroque palace, built under the supervision of B.F. Rastrelli between 1737 and 1769, as well as the Latvian Agricultural University. In 1825 the Tomb of the Duke of Courland, containing 21 metal sarcophagi (the oldest dating from 1569), and nine coffins were installed here. More can be learnt from the town's History and Art Museum at 10 Akadeijas Street, a baroque building with the classic features of the former Academia Petrina (1773-1775). Driving to Pilsrundale after 25 km you'll pass through the Eleja collection of estates in the middle of some spectacular parkland before arriving at Pilsrundale (Rundale Palace) 18 km away and close to the Lithuanian border. Built by B.F. Rastrelli between 1736 and 1740, it is the most complete collection of baroque buildings in Latvia, and was the summer residence of the Duke of Courland, E.J. Biron. Today it houses the Rundale Museum, which has mounted a permanent exhibition on the ground floor. The Golden Hall on the first floor is the most splendid room in the palace, and in the China Cabinet there are some exquisite Chinese and Japanese vases. The White Hall, the palace's ballroom, is stunning and there are several other interesting rooms. To the east of Pilsrundale in the south-eastern section of the Zemgale plain is Bauska, built where the Memele and Musa rivers join to from the Lielupe. On the hill between the two rivers lie the remains of a Livonian Castle; the partially intact main tower, 22 m high, provides marvellous views. The Bauska Regional Study and Art Museum at 6 Kalna Street provides you with more detail on the town.